Hand Block Prints - How the Blocks are Made

December 21, 2017

carved wood blocks used in hand block printing in Jaipur, India

 

Hand block prints are made using sheesham wood.  The wood is carved by hand with the motifs, outlines and fill blocks.  1 block per color in the print.  Each block fits exactly into the overall design so the carving is quite precise.  The carver imbeds markers along the sides of the block for the printer to use as guides when aligning the blocks during printing.  The slight overlap and gap in the actual handwork is the emblematic look of blocks which is a result of imperfect alignment during printing.

 

 

The first step is to draw the motif in color for the carver.  Traditionally motif inspiration was from nature--local varieties of plants, birds--but in contemporary prints, inspiration is also taken from across the globe: nature, other print and design traditions, architecture. first drawing the motifs on paper.  Traditional types of motifs are in several types: an all over floral print which is known as a 'jaal' print and can be in 1-6 colors, a single motif set across or in half drop.  This motif is usually a stylized flower or paisley and is typically called a 'buti' print.  Other traditional styles include geometric repeat patterns or vine patterns. 

Typically blocks range in size from 7cm to 25cm, sometimes bigger with individual motif size being from a few mm to 10 cm.  Modern trends in printing include oversized motifs of 20-25 cm across which creates an antiqued surface texture in printing as the wood does not absorb the dyestuff evenly.

steps in block carving

Once the design has been approved by the carver, he prepares the block by hand sanding and then coating the surface with a white paste so that the surface is uniform and smooth for carving.  He then traces out the design, one color of the design at a time and then taps it onto the surface of the block so the details are clearly visible for carving.  Carvers then tap out the empty space from the wood block so that the design remains along the printing surface.  This is done by hand with very small chisels. 

 

It is a labor intensive process which requires skill, experience and patience.   The completed blocks are checked for accuracy and soaked in oil to cure the wood so it doesn't crack and are then ready for use in printing.  The result?  Beautiful textiles for living!

block printed textiles

 




Leave a comment

Comments will be approved before showing up.


Also in Journal

Fashion Revolution 2023: A Call to Major Brands
Fashion Revolution 2023: A Call to Major Brands

April 28, 2023

A decade after the Rana Plaza disaster that sparked a worldwide fashion revolution, we have made some progress but are still fighting for equitable, accountable and transparent supply chains. . . . . Too often in this movement, we focus on demanding compliance from manufacturers and demanding that brands work only with compliant manufacturers. We don’t rethink the underlying global dichotomy of colonialism that landed us here in the first place, and which still allows brands to be complicit in continuing to feed the imbalance.

Continue Reading

Fashion Revolution Week 2022 - Money - Fashion - Power
Fashion Revolution Week 2022 - Money - Fashion - Power

March 29, 2022

We have a transparent business model based on equitable working conditions, fair payment, teamwork, high quality and transparency and accountability.  Our mission is to be a force for good in the fashion industry.  To do this, we strictly adhere to the WFTO’s ten standards, including: on time payment, fair payment, living wages, safe and clean working conditions, gender equality, no child or forced labor, skills building, respect for the environment.

Continue Reading

Recommendations for New Ethical Fashion Brands
Recommendations for New Ethical Fashion Brands

March 29, 2022

This is an excerpt of an interview with the WFTO discussing our fair trade practices and business model.  I’ll be posting various excerpts from that interview in a series of blog posts leading up to Fashion Revolution Week , 18-24 April.

Continue Reading

Fit/Sizing/Care

FIT

Our styles are meant to give room to breath and move.  We use fine tailoring coupled with a relaxed, comfortable fit.

We use a fit guide for each of our styles to provide more information about the fit that was intended.

Slim Fit: a close fit to the body. Regular Fit: a comfortable, relaxed fit with room around the body. Generous Fit: a very loose fit (such as in our oversized blouses) with lots of room around the body for ease of movement.

SIZING

h4XS/ 36

h4S/ 38

h4M/40

h4L/ 42

h4XL/44

h4chest

h435.5 inches/ 90 cm

h437.5 inches/95 cm

h439.5 inches/ 100 cm

h441.5 inches/ 105 cm

h444.5 inches. 113 cm

h44cm extra from body

h4waist

h426 inches/ 66 cm

h428 inches/ 71 cm

h430 inches/ 76 cm

h432 inches/ 81 cm

h435 inches/ 89 cm

h4fitted

h4low waist

h428 inches/71 cm

h430 inches/76 cm

h432 inches/ 81 cm

h434 inches/ 86 cm

h437 inches/ 94 cm

h4fitted

h4hip

h437 inches/ 94 cm

h439 inches/ 99 cm

h441 inches/ 104 cm

h443 inches/ 109 cm

h446 inches/ 1

h44cm extra from body

WASHCARE

All garments have been washed several times during the printing/dyeing and manufacturing process.  

CARE for 100% cotton

We recommend cold water machine wash (up to 30 degrees celsius) with a bio detergent and either tumble dry on low heat or line dry in shade for all of our 100% cotton garments/homewares (except for quilts).  

Iron on reverse side of garment following fabric settings.  

Do not use bleach or stain remover.

Cold water wash and low heat drying or line drying in the shade will increase the life of the garment, prolong the vibrancy of the colors and reduce energy use. Shrinkage on all cottons is minimal, approximately 3%.

Garments/homewares are dyed or printed using AZO free, low-impact, pigment or reactive dyes unless otherwise noted.  These dyes are color-fast, but care should still be taken to wash with like colors to retain the vibrancy of the colors.

CARE for 100% cotton quilts

For quilts with cotton fill, we recommend spot or light surface cleaning only with a damp cloth and mild detergent.  Eco-friendly dry cleaning is also recommended. 

CARE for herbal/vegetable dye items

Vegetable dyes are not colorfast and are specifically marked in the product description.  We strongly recommend that all vegetable dye products be washed once before use in a cold water wash with minimal detergent.  Wash separately. Tumble dry on low heat or line dry in shade.  Iron on reverse side.  Do not use bleach or stain remover.

Please keep in mind that indigo dye does continually fade over time.  This is the nature of true indigo dye and is not a defect, but rather a sign of the 'living' nature of the dye.

CARE for silk and cotton/silk

For our silk and cotton silk garments/homewares, we also recommend gentle cycle machine wash cold water (up to 30 degrees celsius) or delicate hand washing to increase the life of the garment and reduce the environmental footprint from energy use, detergents and water wastage.  

Tumble dry on low heat or line dry in shade.  

Iron on reverse side of garment following fabric settings.

Do not use bleach or stain remover.

Dry cleaning using an eco-friendly service is also recommended.

CARE for linen and cotton/linen

For our linen and cotton linen garments/homewares, we also recommend gentle cycle machine wash cold water (up to 30 degrees celsius) or delicate hand washing to increase the life of the garment and reduce the environmental footprint from energy use, detergents and water wastage.  

Tumble dry on low heat or line dry in shade.  

Iron on reverse side of garment following fabric settings.

Do not use bleach or stain remover.